Eating my way through Indonesia's beef offal soup, but this red one from Berau is unforgettable.
qponx
2026-03-05
Discover an unforgettable Coto Makassar in Berau! This humble riverside stall serves a unique version of the beef offal soup with a rich, reddish-brown broth, unlike the typical whitish kind. The beef is incredibly tender, and the spicy 'medhok' flavor is a must-try. The local secret? You have to 'racik' (mix) your own seasonings to create the perfect bowl. This article reveals why this spot is a local legend and shares tips for the ultimate experience.
Before coming to Berau, a friend mysteriously told me that I had to try the Coto Makassar place by the river. To be honest, when I first arrived, my heart sank a little. Isn't this just an ordinary little riverside stall? How amazing could it be? Turns out, I was too naive…
A Little Riverside Shop, Hiding the Best Soul in Town
The shop isn't big, but it's kept neat and clean[1], and sitting by the window, you can see the view of the Segah River. Once mealtime hits, the place instantly gets packed, a mix of lokal accents and tourists' exclamations of awe fills the air, and the lively atmosphere is off the charts. I heard that even many officials and celebrities come to check in here[2], truly, the real masters are found among the people!
The star of the show arrives— Coto Makassar[3]. Completely different from the whitish broth you find elsewhere, theirs has a tempting reddish-brown color, and you can tell just by looking that it's packed with ingredients. Take the first sip, Anjay! That rich, heavy spice flavor (what the locals call 'medhok') instantly explodes in your mouth, but it's not heavy or greasy at all. The beef is also fresh lokal beef, unbelievably tender, it practically melts in your mouth. The Ketupat rice cakes[4] on the side can be added freely, soaking up the broth, it's a godsend for carb lovers!
But Before I Get Carried Away, Some Honest Truths
But to be fair, I have to say a few things. The broth is a bit bland by default, so definitely don't drink it straight. The salt, chili, soy sauce, and lime on the table are the soul of the dish; you have to 'racik' (mix) it yourself to get the flavor just right[5]. I've also seen some reviews saying that they occasionally get pieces of meat with a bad texture. Although I didn't experience that this time, it would be even more Mantap if the owner could be a bit more careful when selecting the ingredients.
Heartfelt Tips 📝
For those of you who want to give it a try, remember these points to level up your experience!
- Go early! It gets super crowded during mealtimes, so if you want to nongkrong leisurely, go during off-peak hours[6]. If you don't want to wait in line, do what I did and go around 3 or 4 PM, it's very chill～
- Don't be too late! They close up for the day once they sell out, which is usually after the Isha prayer in the evening. If you go too late, you'll just be staring at an empty pot and crying[7].
- Parking is a matter of luck: There's no proper parking lot, so you have to find a spot on the roadside. Friends who are driving, please be careful[8].
- DIY for the best results: Let me emphasize again, you absolutely have to season it yourself! That's the authentic way to eat it, so don't say I didn't warn you
- Locals say this humble spot has the city's #1 Coto Makassar [1]. So authentic, even celebs and officials are regulars [2].
- A rich broth bomb of medhok spices, with melt-in-your-mouth beef and unlimited Ketupat rice cakes [3][4].
- Do it like a local: 'racik' your own mix of salt, chili, soy sauce & lime. That's the soul of the dish [5].
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